You might be able to find a fantastic veggie roti in Parkdale—or a bar that serves $2 beer—but until Chef Mark Cutrara opened Cowbell last summer, pulling up a chair in a French bistro on the strip of Queen West, West, West was not something locals could do. Or ever thought they wanted to do. But Cutrara’s created not only a locavore’s crack den (churning butter in the basement, curing and smoking his own meat) he’s done it in a very Parkdale way—charming but not ostentatious.

The small but spacious-feeling dining room is a lesson in understated design. Gold and buttery paneled walls, oak banker’s chairs (from neighbourhood shops) and thick reclaimed pine tables create a comfortable and neutral setting, allowing antique church pews, upholstered in ivory and scarlet brocade, to add suitable pop. But the true feature of the room is the stunning white and black hexagonal-mosaic tile floor. It screams casual elegance, the mood Cutrara is going for with his new menu-less venture.

Two substantial chalkboards display the day’s offerings of naturally raised organic meats, house-smoked delicacies and local produce. He’s even doing his own butchering—a skill learned at The Healthy Butcher earlier this year. Though Cutrara could do himself a favour and proclaim these facts more obviously than a small footnote at the bottom of the board. It may help customers’ link value with portion size and price.

Garnering raves in his last kitchen at Globe Bistro, Cutrara is clearly having fun in his own element and it shows on his plates. Though not everything coming out of his new kitchen is bang-on, his use of mixing premium local ingredients and keeping flavour combos simple is as good a starting point as any.

First courses could be bigger and Cutrara could charge more—currently ($6 - $10). Chewy and moist house-cured bresaola arrives tucked into a log cabin of crispy polenta fries with chipotle aioli for dipping ($6). Cutrara’s whimsical take on breakfast is simple and flawless. Tempura-fried green tomatoes ($10) get topped with a poached free-range egg and a scattering of sautéed pork belly bits. But tender and pink smoked trout ($8) seems skimpy on a mountain of sweet corn and grape tomato salsa; its pickled perch accompaniment adds wonderful tang but distracts with its chewy texture. Much better is the country-style terrine ($9); chunky with flecks of black pepper and pistachio and served simply with cornichons, mustard and slices of baguette.

Mains show signs of finesse but need refining. A fatty pork shoulder chop ($26) could use a touch more seasoning but its celery root and diced apple topping, caramelized onions, baby beets and thin peels of pickled zucchini are an award-winning combo. Perfectly cooked veal sirloin with tomato, corn and sautéed rapini is utterly divine, though for $27 the four-ounce portion seems meager. Beef pot pie ($18) could also use a touch more flavour but its flaky croissant-like crust would bring grandma to tears. And while a rubbery-skinned chicken Ballotine ($25) is shameful—and pricy—its spiced lentil and buttery green been accompaniments reinforce Cutrara’s fine attention to veggies.

Unfortunately desserts (all $7) don’t redeem and send us unfulfilled into the sweaty Parkdale night. Strawberry soup, a.k.a pureed strawberries doused in sparkling wine at the table, is downright ridiculous. And pre-made crepes stuffed with strawberry, rhubarb and plums capture a casual feeling but lack the elegance of Cutrara’s other dishes. He does win with one—a silky and dense milk chocolate pot au crème. Its pine nut tart companion taming the sweetness and adding beautiful buttery texture.

Just the mere opening of Cowbell put Parkdale on the dining map. Now if Cutrara can churn out a few edits he may very well be able to turn his bistro into a bona fide destination, replete with elegance and down home charm—100% organic, of course. Dinner for two: $120

• 1564 Queen St. W, Toronto
• 416-849-1095

Originally published in eyeWeekly

Cavernous but chic, the ROM’s new resto/lounge is a mostly stark white space accented with a shiny black vinyl wall in the lounge and luminous stainless steal vents above the open kitchen. It’s like Superman’s Fortress of Solitude for the gastro-adventurer.

Perched on the fifth floor of the Michael Lee-Chin Crystal the space’s sharp angles are reflected in the futuristic design by local heavy-weights II by IV. Cool etched-resin tables, boxy chrome chairs and architectural place settings strike a modern mood but the room lacks interest after the initial impression. Ample wall space and a soaring ceiling make an ideal gallery it’s too bad there isn’t any art on display, save for an organic glass sculpture of grey, black and beige, by Toronto artist Jeff Goodman, which divides the lounge from the dining room. South and west-facing views of the city at least offer something to look at—a spectacular July sunset on the night we dine.

It’s a good thing 34 year-old chef Teddy Corrado has vision of his own—the fusion-y, French, yet eclectic menu is a pan-global romp, and a clear reflection of Corrado’s urban upbringing. Thankfully he pulls it off—at least most of it. Having spent formidable years at George, Luce and Rain he knows a thing or two about mixing the simple with the exotic, like wild black bass dusted with fennel pollen. And many of the dishes we order arrive artfully presented. Special attention to colour is especially apparent.

The raw tasting plate ($20) features a row of vibrant reds and muted whites—beef tartare, tuna and hamachi. Madai snapper sashimi is stellar paired with candied yuzu peel and a Summer Breeze oyster topped with a citrusy-mango mignonette dazzles with its briny sweetness.

Our first course, or C1, also brings with it chunky pappardelle ribbons ($15), mirrored by thick smoked duck prosciutto, spongy morels and rich fava beans. Topped with wonderfully light yet pungent Parmigiano foam, it’s the first dish to disappear.

Round two is practically flawless and the table confers that the grilled Quebec foie gras is the best we’ve tasted. Its formidable crust gives way to a debonair-smooth centre. Accompanying buttery tartlet of smoky chorizo adds flaky texture and is balanced by a sweet cherry chutney and spicy aji Amarillo sauce. It’s like a mini tasting menu all its own.

The worst thing we can say about the seared Hokkaido scallop ($17) is that it’s a little bland—and a bit confusing until we figure out that the tiny cow’s tongue on top is actually sea urchin. Accompanying fennel and gruyere salad adds little colour and less flavour.

Much better is Corrado’s whimsical take on Southern barbecue. Tender pieces of leek-spiked pulled rabbit ($24) snuggle with peppery veal sweetbreads in a delicate, yet shape-holding pastry shell on a bed of sweet pea puree. It’s seemingly complicated, yet simple in its flavours all the same.

It’s a tough act to follow and sadly one the kitchen can’t. While the C3 dishes are expertly composed it seems the kitchen is still working out the tendency to over season. Tender rack of lamb ($30) is muted by a potent Duxelles crust and a morel jus that’s been reduced too far. A similarly delicious aged strip loin paired with candy-like spring carrots and a sticky fig and port reduction is outshone by a stinky-cheese polenta and an over zealous final salting.

Sadly desserts don’t redeem. A piddly waffle wedge ($10) with roasted figs and frozen vanilla custard seems pedestrian and a creamy condensed milk panna cotta ($9) could hold its gelatinous shape under the broiler—though its pool of watermelon and vodka consommé should be patented.

Service also needs further refinement—lilac clad waiters are friendly and efficient but are a bit too eager. Perhaps in time their colourful energy will rub off on the subdued walls and vice versa, if we’re lucky. Dinner for two with wine, tax and tip: $250.

• 100 Queen’s Park, Toronto
• 416-586-7928

Originally published in eyeWeekly

The experience begins on the dock of Algonquin’s Cache Lake as guests await the arrival of the wooden freighter canoe that delivers them to the rustic pine lodge. An ever-changing five course menu ($54) caters to locavores. An amber stroke of maple syrup under a thin disk of eggy French toast balances a mousse of lightly smoked rainbow trout, tiny flecks of which add weight and texture to the playful amuse bouche.

Lake-like in its pooling around an island of slow-braised Kurobuta pork belly, mild curry soup maintains textural traces of its green apple beginnings and finishes with slight heat. Crispy-skinned and candy-like, the rendered swine adds richness while the puree lends flavours of cumin and turmeric to the lightly seasoned meat.

Grilled beef tenderloin, ordered medium-rare, arrives overcooked yet moist and nearly fork-tender. Perched atop a cliff of nutty brown-butter mashed and decorated with tempura shallots, its small twists like these from Chef Sarah Allen that make common pairings special. A pinecone-size scoop of airy yet concentrated gorgonzola foam melts on contact with the meat’s soft flesh, adding necessary pungent flavour to the mild cut. Crackling-skinned rainbow trout needs a re-think. Ripe tomato concasse does its best to punch up the subtle fish though it still comes off as one dimensional. Accompanying mixed mushrooms and duck fat roasted potatoes add little. Allen redeems herself with generous pieces of tender-braised sweet rabbit, stuffed into al dente ravioli rounds with a small dollop of tart goat cheese. Served on a mound of charred red peppers, grilled shitakes and thin chickpea puree, the simple flavours show masterful restraint.

Desserts satisfy both fruit and chocolate cravings. A thin layer of burnt sugar reveals fudge-like chocolate and chili crème brule, its lingering cayenne mellowed by sour raspberry sorbet and crunchy vanilla tuile. Silky orange ice cream melts slowly over crumbly and dense flourless chocolate cake. A savoury ribbon of mascarpone drizzle prevents diabetic shock. Not licensed; patrons are encouraged to bring their own wine. Reservations recommended. $145 (not including wine)

• Algonquin Park, Huntsville, Ontario
• 705.633.5543
• Open May to October

Originally published in Toronto Life

As the doors of party season get set to open, every girl should arm herself with a guide or trusted manual should she be caught hosting her own cocktail party. Whether planning a girls’ night in, or just mixing up a few drinks before hitting another seasonal soiree, there’s a fresh new book out that’s more than just shaking up Sex and the City-style cosmos. Combining one part dating manual with one part relationship guide and a splash of everyday musings, Libations of Life-a Girl’s Guide to Life: One Cocktail at a Time, is packed with both girl talk and girly drinks.

Author Dee Brun (who’s ring tone just so happens to be the theme song from Sex and the City) is seasoned both behind the bar and in the game of life. She lays it all out in her first book with a generous dose of wit and a serious glug of humour. You know you’re dealing with a bit of a she-devil with chapters like “The dating pool, and its lack of lifeguards—cocktails meant to help you stay afloat”. And a whole section on “Trolling cocktails” with drinks like “don’t let me go home with him Daiquiri”, the perfect cocktail to keep you out of trouble at the holiday office party.

“This libation must ALWAYS be accompanied by your girlfriend with the clearest judgment. Most importantly, listen to her!” says Brun.

Brun recommends flipping through the “Trim the back fat” chapter, featuring 12 deliciously low-cal, low-carb elixirs, over the holidays as this leaves room for “guilt-free hazing of the buffet.”

Stick to vodka, rum and white wine she suggests, for the most figure-friendly options.

For navigating the cocktail party bonanza Brun dishes some sage advice.

“A girl always needs to look fabulous during this season—from head to toe. Just remember you always look better upright, and not passed out on the “coat bed” at a holiday party,” she quips.

If indeed you find yourself asleep on a pile of leather and faux fur perhaps you were drinking one of Brun’s favourite holiday cocktails.

These recipes and Brun’s book are sure to put you in the festive mood, even if you’re only in it for the alcohol. So, her best advise over the holidays?

“Drink responsibly during any company function. You do not want to be the topic of discussion around the water cooler Monday morning, especially if they are discussing how you ended up on top of, or under that table.”

Libations of Life: a Girl’s Guide to Life, One Cocktail at a Time, $19.95 (Whitecap Books, 2007), available at major retailers.

10. Prepare for the teetotalers. Some people don’t drink (if you can believe it?!) while others may have to drive home—that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t make them feel special. Prepare a virgin cocktail or serve them sparkling water in wine glasses and garnish with a few frozen berries. Pretty and delicious.

9. Rotate the hand towels half-way through the evening. While you’re reapplying your lip gloss check the saturation level on the hand towels. You may only need to switch the back to the front but if they’re soaked through you can replace with fresh towels. It’s a small thing that your guests notice.

8. Split the food in half. Cut wedges of cheese in two; keep a bag of shrimp on reserve and an un-open box of crackers. This way you can replenish and refresh—it keeps the buffet table looking good and ensures food isn’t sitting out for several hours at a time.

7. Don’t ask your guests to remove their shoes. Unless there’s a snow-fall coinciding with your party there’s really no excuse. Shoes are part of the ensemble, for both men and women, and sock-feet clash with almost all décor. Hardwood, laminate and tile floors can be cleaned with a quick mop. Carpet floors, well, invest in a heavy-duty vacuum or consider resurfacing.

6. Roll up area rugs, stash the fragile objet d’art and clear space for chat circles and a possible dance floor—it’s the holiday, guests want to dance off all the extra calories.

5. Rent glassware, dishes and linens. Party rentals are relatively inexpensive and they show up clean and go away dirty. No dishes and no worries about breakage—worth every penny the next day, and so much more sophisticated than plastic, not to mention environmentally friendlier.

4. Hire help. Dinner parties larger than 12, and cocktail parties in excess of 30 should be catered. Even if you insist on preparing all of the food yourself, hire one or two servers and a bartender to man the ovens, clear the mess and mix the drinks. It’s your party and you should be mingling with your guest not stuck in the kitchen.

3. Create a playlist. Music should never be overlooked yet often is put off until the end of the party planning stage. Having five hours (8pm to 1am) of music preprogrammed means you’ll have time to focus on your guests and not frantically tossing CDs into the stereo. Start with mellow lounge music and progress into more upbeat and danceable tunes later on.

2. Lighting, lighting, lighting. Invest in dimmer switches and accent that with candlelight. Everyone looks (and feels) wonderful in subdued lighting. If you can’t switch all your lighting to dimmers (say in the kitchen or bathroom) change the bulbs to 25 or 40 watts for the night and add candles to brighten the space if necessary.

1. Brew some coffee when you want your guests to leave. It’s a sure-fire way to hammer the point home that the party’s over and your guests will get the hint. If they don’t start washing dishes, that’ll do it.

First published at ElleCanada.com

Now that summer’s oppressive heat has lifted (it seems to hurt less when you say it like that) and the days are filled with crisp, clean air it’s time to turn from light ales and thirst-quenching lagers to ones that have a little more heft—beer that’ll put hair on your chest. Or, at least ones that will stand up to the hearty stews and heavier dishes that become customary this time of year.

As the weather changes so do our palates (white wine in summer, red wine in winter anyone?) and suddenly you might find yourself craving a fuller-flavoured beer when just a couple weeks ago it would have been a bucket of Coronas or bust. Luckily we live in a country of devote beer drinkers that’s helped create a flourishing market for micro-brews—many of them crafting exceptional fall-friendly beers—as well as helping to keep demand high for full-bodied European ales, stouts and Abbey beers.

Broken down into three main categories (with some overlap) here’s a quick guide to choosing a beer that’ll both quench your autumnal thirst and compliment your meal.

To mark the 30th anniversary of Jimmy Buffet’s legendary cocktail song we’ve deconstructed the noble margarita and come up with a couple failsafe recipes — enough to have you “wastin’ away” right through to the fall. NOTE: not responsible for lost or stolen shakers of salt.

Margaritas come in many shapes, sizes and colours but a basic margarita is made with three ingredients — tequila, orange liqueur and lime juice, then shaken with ice. Although, if you insist on blending yours with ice, we’ll let it slide. However, if you have a bottle of “gold” tequila in your cupboard and insist on using that to mix drinks, we’re sorry but that just will not do and you should dispose of it immediately.

Few things can cut through the sweat of mid-summer like the sharp pucker of a citrus cocktail. A little sweet, a little sour and served well chilled, citrus really is the standby summer thirst quencher. Readily available in fruit, juice and frozen form, citrus blends easily with other flavours, it’s rich in vitamins and it goes great with almost any booze from wine to tequila. Even citrus cocktails are versatile; they can be served frozen, prepared ahead in batches or steeped for days. If we haven’t convinced you to rediscover the world of citrus, don’t worry, there’s still hope. We’ve deconstructed some classic cocktails to help understand what makes a good citrus cocktail work. Take this power, use it wisely, we suggest experimentation, perhaps invent a new signature cocktail, then name it, (after yourself of course).

Understanding German wines can be like learning to fly fish — from a guy with a thick Bavarian accent. It’s difficult and confusing but can be incredibly rewarding — once you’ve hooked your first fish. Germany produces some of the greatest white wines on the planet, and once you learn the language you’ll be able to navigate this section of your local wine shop with greater ease and precision — like driving a Mercedes.

As with fashion and television shows some things peak during different seasons. The same can be said with wine. During the cold, dark nights of winter you’ll find many people sipping bold cabernet sauvignons by the fire, while during the summer big red wines feel heavy and hot. The dog days of summer can feel heavy and hot themselves so many of us turn to cool and refreshing whites to help satiate our thirst and pass time on the patio. Whether you need to pair a bottle with a light meal or are just looking for something to sip with friends, choosing a wine that fits your mood is as easy as a trip to your local wine shop — if you know what you’re looking for, that is.