Cowbell (*1/2) slows food down with its local and organic focus.

You might be able to find a fantastic veggie roti in Parkdale—or a bar that serves $2 beer—but until Chef Mark Cutrara opened Cowbell last summer, pulling up a chair in a French bistro on the strip of Queen West, West, West was not something locals could do. Or ever thought they wanted to do. But Cutrara’s created not only a locavore’s crack den (churning butter in the basement, curing and smoking his own meat) he’s done it in a very Parkdale way—charming but not ostentatious.

The small but spacious-feeling dining room is a lesson in understated design. Gold and buttery paneled walls, oak banker’s chairs (from neighbourhood shops) and thick reclaimed pine tables create a comfortable and neutral setting, allowing antique church pews, upholstered in ivory and scarlet brocade, to add suitable pop. But the true feature of the room is the stunning white and black hexagonal-mosaic tile floor. It screams casual elegance, the mood Cutrara is going for with his new menu-less venture.

Two substantial chalkboards display the day’s offerings of naturally raised organic meats, house-smoked delicacies and local produce. He’s even doing his own butchering—a skill learned at The Healthy Butcher earlier this year. Though Cutrara could do himself a favour and proclaim these facts more obviously than a small footnote at the bottom of the board. It may help customers’ link value with portion size and price.

Garnering raves in his last kitchen at Globe Bistro, Cutrara is clearly having fun in his own element and it shows on his plates. Though not everything coming out of his new kitchen is bang-on, his use of mixing premium local ingredients and keeping flavour combos simple is as good a starting point as any.

First courses could be bigger and Cutrara could charge more—currently ($6 - $10). Chewy and moist house-cured bresaola arrives tucked into a log cabin of crispy polenta fries with chipotle aioli for dipping ($6). Cutrara’s whimsical take on breakfast is simple and flawless. Tempura-fried green tomatoes ($10) get topped with a poached free-range egg and a scattering of sautéed pork belly bits. But tender and pink smoked trout ($8) seems skimpy on a mountain of sweet corn and grape tomato salsa; its pickled perch accompaniment adds wonderful tang but distracts with its chewy texture. Much better is the country-style terrine ($9); chunky with flecks of black pepper and pistachio and served simply with cornichons, mustard and slices of baguette.

Mains show signs of finesse but need refining. A fatty pork shoulder chop ($26) could use a touch more seasoning but its celery root and diced apple topping, caramelized onions, baby beets and thin peels of pickled zucchini are an award-winning combo. Perfectly cooked veal sirloin with tomato, corn and sautéed rapini is utterly divine, though for $27 the four-ounce portion seems meager. Beef pot pie ($18) could also use a touch more flavour but its flaky croissant-like crust would bring grandma to tears. And while a rubbery-skinned chicken Ballotine ($25) is shameful—and pricy—its spiced lentil and buttery green been accompaniments reinforce Cutrara’s fine attention to veggies.

Unfortunately desserts (all $7) don’t redeem and send us unfulfilled into the sweaty Parkdale night. Strawberry soup, a.k.a pureed strawberries doused in sparkling wine at the table, is downright ridiculous. And pre-made crepes stuffed with strawberry, rhubarb and plums capture a casual feeling but lack the elegance of Cutrara’s other dishes. He does win with one—a silky and dense milk chocolate pot au crème. Its pine nut tart companion taming the sweetness and adding beautiful buttery texture.

Just the mere opening of Cowbell put Parkdale on the dining map. Now if Cutrara can churn out a few edits he may very well be able to turn his bistro into a bona fide destination, replete with elegance and down home charm—100% organic, of course. Dinner for two: $120

• 1564 Queen St. W, Toronto
• 416-849-1095

Originally published in eyeWeekly

C5 (**), the Royal Ontario Museum’s swank resto delivers a rhinestone experience for diamond-like prices.

Cavernous but chic, the ROM’s new resto/lounge is a mostly stark white space accented with a shiny black vinyl wall in the lounge and luminous stainless steal vents above the open kitchen. It’s like Superman’s Fortress of Solitude for the gastro-adventurer.

Perched on the fifth floor of the Michael Lee-Chin Crystal the space’s sharp angles are reflected in the futuristic design by local heavy-weights II by IV. Cool etched-resin tables, boxy chrome chairs and architectural place settings strike a modern mood but the room lacks interest after the initial impression. Ample wall space and a soaring ceiling make an ideal gallery it’s too bad there isn’t any art on display, save for an organic glass sculpture of grey, black and beige, by Toronto artist Jeff Goodman, which divides the lounge from the dining room. South and west-facing views of the city at least offer something to look at—a spectacular July sunset on the night we dine.

It’s a good thing 34 year-old chef Teddy Corrado has vision of his own—the fusion-y, French, yet eclectic menu is a pan-global romp, and a clear reflection of Corrado’s urban upbringing. Thankfully he pulls it off—at least most of it. Having spent formidable years at George, Luce and Rain he knows a thing or two about mixing the simple with the exotic, like wild black bass dusted with fennel pollen. And many of the dishes we order arrive artfully presented. Special attention to colour is especially apparent.

The raw tasting plate ($20) features a row of vibrant reds and muted whites—beef tartare, tuna and hamachi. Madai snapper sashimi is stellar paired with candied yuzu peel and a Summer Breeze oyster topped with a citrusy-mango mignonette dazzles with its briny sweetness.

Our first course, or C1, also brings with it chunky pappardelle ribbons ($15), mirrored by thick smoked duck prosciutto, spongy morels and rich fava beans. Topped with wonderfully light yet pungent Parmigiano foam, it’s the first dish to disappear.

Round two is practically flawless and the table confers that the grilled Quebec foie gras is the best we’ve tasted. Its formidable crust gives way to a debonair-smooth centre. Accompanying buttery tartlet of smoky chorizo adds flaky texture and is balanced by a sweet cherry chutney and spicy aji Amarillo sauce. It’s like a mini tasting menu all its own.

The worst thing we can say about the seared Hokkaido scallop ($17) is that it’s a little bland—and a bit confusing until we figure out that the tiny cow’s tongue on top is actually sea urchin. Accompanying fennel and gruyere salad adds little colour and less flavour.

Much better is Corrado’s whimsical take on Southern barbecue. Tender pieces of leek-spiked pulled rabbit ($24) snuggle with peppery veal sweetbreads in a delicate, yet shape-holding pastry shell on a bed of sweet pea puree. It’s seemingly complicated, yet simple in its flavours all the same.

It’s a tough act to follow and sadly one the kitchen can’t. While the C3 dishes are expertly composed it seems the kitchen is still working out the tendency to over season. Tender rack of lamb ($30) is muted by a potent Duxelles crust and a morel jus that’s been reduced too far. A similarly delicious aged strip loin paired with candy-like spring carrots and a sticky fig and port reduction is outshone by a stinky-cheese polenta and an over zealous final salting.

Sadly desserts don’t redeem. A piddly waffle wedge ($10) with roasted figs and frozen vanilla custard seems pedestrian and a creamy condensed milk panna cotta ($9) could hold its gelatinous shape under the broiler—though its pool of watermelon and vodka consommé should be patented.

Service also needs further refinement—lilac clad waiters are friendly and efficient but are a bit too eager. Perhaps in time their colourful energy will rub off on the subdued walls and vice versa, if we’re lucky. Dinner for two with wine, tax and tip: $250.

• 100 Queen’s Park, Toronto
• 416-586-7928

Originally published in eyeWeekly

Bartlett Lodge (**1/2) is Algonquin Park’s best kept secret and serves designer food at discount prices.

The experience begins on the dock of Algonquin’s Cache Lake as guests await the arrival of the wooden freighter canoe that delivers them to the rustic pine lodge. An ever-changing five course menu ($54) caters to locavores. An amber stroke of maple syrup under a thin disk of eggy French toast balances a mousse of lightly smoked rainbow trout, tiny flecks of which add weight and texture to the playful amuse bouche.

Lake-like in its pooling around an island of slow-braised Kurobuta pork belly, mild curry soup maintains textural traces of its green apple beginnings and finishes with slight heat. Crispy-skinned and candy-like, the rendered swine adds richness while the puree lends flavours of cumin and turmeric to the lightly seasoned meat.

Grilled beef tenderloin, ordered medium-rare, arrives overcooked yet moist and nearly fork-tender. Perched atop a cliff of nutty brown-butter mashed and decorated with tempura shallots, its small twists like these from Chef Sarah Allen that make common pairings special. A pinecone-size scoop of airy yet concentrated gorgonzola foam melts on contact with the meat’s soft flesh, adding necessary pungent flavour to the mild cut. Crackling-skinned rainbow trout needs a re-think. Ripe tomato concasse does its best to punch up the subtle fish though it still comes off as one dimensional. Accompanying mixed mushrooms and duck fat roasted potatoes add little. Allen redeems herself with generous pieces of tender-braised sweet rabbit, stuffed into al dente ravioli rounds with a small dollop of tart goat cheese. Served on a mound of charred red peppers, grilled shitakes and thin chickpea puree, the simple flavours show masterful restraint.

Desserts satisfy both fruit and chocolate cravings. A thin layer of burnt sugar reveals fudge-like chocolate and chili crème brule, its lingering cayenne mellowed by sour raspberry sorbet and crunchy vanilla tuile. Silky orange ice cream melts slowly over crumbly and dense flourless chocolate cake. A savoury ribbon of mascarpone drizzle prevents diabetic shock. Not licensed; patrons are encouraged to bring their own wine. Reservations recommended. $145 (not including wine)

• Algonquin Park, Huntsville, Ontario
• 705.633.5543
• Open May to October

Originally published in Toronto Life