C5 (**), the Royal Ontario Museum’s swank resto delivers a rhinestone experience for diamond-like prices.

Cavernous but chic, the ROM’s new resto/lounge is a mostly stark white space accented with a shiny black vinyl wall in the lounge and luminous stainless steal vents above the open kitchen. It’s like Superman’s Fortress of Solitude for the gastro-adventurer.

Perched on the fifth floor of the Michael Lee-Chin Crystal the space’s sharp angles are reflected in the futuristic design by local heavy-weights II by IV. Cool etched-resin tables, boxy chrome chairs and architectural place settings strike a modern mood but the room lacks interest after the initial impression. Ample wall space and a soaring ceiling make an ideal gallery it’s too bad there isn’t any art on display, save for an organic glass sculpture of grey, black and beige, by Toronto artist Jeff Goodman, which divides the lounge from the dining room. South and west-facing views of the city at least offer something to look at—a spectacular July sunset on the night we dine.

It’s a good thing 34 year-old chef Teddy Corrado has vision of his own—the fusion-y, French, yet eclectic menu is a pan-global romp, and a clear reflection of Corrado’s urban upbringing. Thankfully he pulls it off—at least most of it. Having spent formidable years at George, Luce and Rain he knows a thing or two about mixing the simple with the exotic, like wild black bass dusted with fennel pollen. And many of the dishes we order arrive artfully presented. Special attention to colour is especially apparent.

The raw tasting plate ($20) features a row of vibrant reds and muted whites—beef tartare, tuna and hamachi. Madai snapper sashimi is stellar paired with candied yuzu peel and a Summer Breeze oyster topped with a citrusy-mango mignonette dazzles with its briny sweetness.

Our first course, or C1, also brings with it chunky pappardelle ribbons ($15), mirrored by thick smoked duck prosciutto, spongy morels and rich fava beans. Topped with wonderfully light yet pungent Parmigiano foam, it’s the first dish to disappear.

Round two is practically flawless and the table confers that the grilled Quebec foie gras is the best we’ve tasted. Its formidable crust gives way to a debonair-smooth centre. Accompanying buttery tartlet of smoky chorizo adds flaky texture and is balanced by a sweet cherry chutney and spicy aji Amarillo sauce. It’s like a mini tasting menu all its own.

The worst thing we can say about the seared Hokkaido scallop ($17) is that it’s a little bland—and a bit confusing until we figure out that the tiny cow’s tongue on top is actually sea urchin. Accompanying fennel and gruyere salad adds little colour and less flavour.

Much better is Corrado’s whimsical take on Southern barbecue. Tender pieces of leek-spiked pulled rabbit ($24) snuggle with peppery veal sweetbreads in a delicate, yet shape-holding pastry shell on a bed of sweet pea puree. It’s seemingly complicated, yet simple in its flavours all the same.

It’s a tough act to follow and sadly one the kitchen can’t. While the C3 dishes are expertly composed it seems the kitchen is still working out the tendency to over season. Tender rack of lamb ($30) is muted by a potent Duxelles crust and a morel jus that’s been reduced too far. A similarly delicious aged strip loin paired with candy-like spring carrots and a sticky fig and port reduction is outshone by a stinky-cheese polenta and an over zealous final salting.

Sadly desserts don’t redeem. A piddly waffle wedge ($10) with roasted figs and frozen vanilla custard seems pedestrian and a creamy condensed milk panna cotta ($9) could hold its gelatinous shape under the broiler—though its pool of watermelon and vodka consommé should be patented.

Service also needs further refinement—lilac clad waiters are friendly and efficient but are a bit too eager. Perhaps in time their colourful energy will rub off on the subdued walls and vice versa, if we’re lucky. Dinner for two with wine, tax and tip: $250.

• 100 Queen’s Park, Toronto
• 416-586-7928

Originally published in eyeWeekly