Can’t tell a Gewürztraminer from a Spätburgunder? Learn about the different varieties of German wine, plus how to decode the labels.

Understanding German wines can be like learning to fly fish — from a guy with a thick Bavarian accent. It’s difficult and confusing but can be incredibly rewarding — once you’ve hooked your first fish. Germany produces some of the greatest white wines on the planet, and once you learn the language you’ll be able to navigate this section of your local wine shop with greater ease and precision — like driving a Mercedes.

Riesling

Germany put Riesling on the map and produces some of the greatest — and purest –examples of this wine anywhere. With its light but distinctive full fruit flavour and high acidity, Riesling is a great accompaniment to a broad range of food or enjoyed on its own before a meal.

Canada’s Niagara region also produces wonderful examples of Rieslings, so if you’re familiar with these, treat yourself to a tasting evening with both countries. You’ll notice distinct differences in the wines, attributable to climate and handling methods. And it’s a great way to bring two nations together!

Gewürztraminer

Arguably the most difficult grape to pronounce is Gewürztraminer, another signature white produced extensively in Germany and Alsace, France. The most notable quality of a Gewurzt is the unmistakable nose of lychee. This highly aromatic wine makes a good candidate to pair with a broad range of foods including dishes that are difficult to match with wine such as spicy dishes or Asian cuisine.

Pinot Noir

Another noteworthy varietal is Spätburgunder, or as we like to call it, Pinot Noir. It has been at the forefront of German viticulture for the last 25 years. With its cool nights and warm summer days, Germany has a perfect microclimate for the finicky Pinot Noir grape and has allowed it to compete with the top Pinot producers in the world.

Dessert wines

Germany is probably best known as a country that produces very sweet dessert wines and is the country that invented ice wine. They produce at least four different levels of dessert wines, all with increasing intensity and sweetness: Auslese, Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenaulsese and Eiswein.

Labelling system

The problem here is that for years an almost indecipherable labelling system — coupled with the need to know who the good vintners were — made for a very consumer-unfriendly buying game. Consumers were also supposed to be able to recognize vineyard names and wacky terms related to sweetness and certain vintages. Luckily this is changing, albeit not overnight, so here’s a quick rundown of German labeling.

• QbA (Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete) — like Canada’s VQA labeling. Means good-quality wine from one of 13 good-quality regions.
• QmP (Qualitätswein mit Prädikat) — Translated as “quality wine with distinction,” QmP wines are the pinnacle of the German wines. Every QmP wine must be 100 per cent natural and the level of sugar and alcohol must come solely from the grape.

Germany’s backyard

Germany is divided into 13 wine-growing regions that are primarily concentrated in the south and southwest of the country. Riesling predominates in the more northern areas, with Pinot Noir and other reds found further south. By global standards, Germany itself is one of the most northerly grape-growing regions, but due to a long growing season with a temperate summer, harvests can be extended to allow fruit to be picked ripe and juicy. The climate is moderated by humid Gulf Stream air from the west and dry easterly air, ensuring consistent moisture that results in a diverse range of wines, reflective of varying soil conditions and production techniques.

We would be remiss not to mention a few last nuances about the German wine experience. Sekt is German bubbly and although not extensively consumed in North America, Germans represent the largest per-capita consumer of the fizzy stuff globally. In addition, as with almost any other region, local dialect supercedes common international terms, so the next time you’re shopping for a Grauburgunder, you’ll understand it’s a Pinot Gris. Or, should you’re favourite haunt run out of Weissburgunder, you can calm alarms by suggesting a nice Pinot Blanc. It may seem confusing at first, but Germany’s unique products and high-quality grapes can make for great values.

First published at CanadianLiving.com